ENCHANTING KUMAON

The cool breeze emanating from the forest of Banbassa was a welcome change from the dry heat of Bareilly. The lush green trees on both sides of the road took away the weariness of the city life. Banbassa, located near the Nepal border, is a small town of Uttaranchal. It is a gateway to the hills. The weather is cool and the serene atmosphere adds to its charm. The view along the Sharda River, which divides India and Nepal, is captivating.

Moving on to Champawat from Banbassa along the narrow winding road, through the dense jungle of pine and sal trees full of monkeys, langurs, and numerous varieties of birds are enchanting. Champawat with a pristine view, situated at an altitude of 1610 meters, is one of the oldest towns of Kumaon valley. Originally it was the capital of the Chand Dynasty and according to mythology, the turtle incarnation of Lord Vishnu took place here. The Chand rulers built the famous Baleshwar temple, believed to be built in the twelfth century, is dedicated to Lord Shiva. There are two more temples in the compound, one dedicated to Ratneshwar and the other to Chmapawati Durga. These temples are stone structures with beautiful carvings outside as well as inside the temples.

Close to Champawat towards Lohaghat, one comes across an ashram nestled in thick deodar and pine jungles.  The nine-kilometer drive from Lohaghat to the ashram is lined with a thick untouched jungle of deodar and pine trees. One can hear birds chirping and enjoying their freedom without the noise of the outside world. Mayawati Advaita Ashram is a calm and quiet place with its beautiful cottage with flowers all over the place. It is no wonder that Swami Vivekananda chose this place for a spiritual quest. The ashram, housing a library and a museum, attracts spiritualists from India and abroad.

As one moves toward Pithoragarh, a sudden encounter with the grandeur of high mountain ranges takes one's breath away. When the road meanders from Ghat towards the high mountains one feels like a bird going closer and closer to the sky. Pithoragarh, with its natural splendor of greenery, meandering streams, and meadows, also known as mini Kashmir, is worth a visit. Locally known as Sor valley, this township was established by king Pithora in the later part of the 14th century. The panoramic view of Panchachuli and Nandadevi peaks and the dense forests from the Chandak hill is just out of a travel magazine.

On the route from Pithoragarh to Almora, are the ancient famous Jogeshwar temples. Set amidst the impenetrable deodar forest, these 124 stone temple structures are truly a visual treat. These splendid Lord Shiva temples, built between the 8th and 12th century, is a serene religious place for the Shiva devotees. As one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, these temples are esteemed for their architecture and stone carvings.

The breezy drive from these temples leads one towards Almora, a splendid hill station. Almora recognized for its healthy weather and picturesque beauty was the favourite place of Rabindranath Tagore and Swami Vivekananda. The air is fresh and clean, and a brisk walk around the place is refreshing after a long journey.

Kumaon is indeed enchanting. While tourists towards Uttrakhand are focused on a few better known hill stations, the virgin beauty on this route carved a special place on my heart.